Travel in Fez - Morocco - Africa - Culture

Fez - Culture

The capital of Morocco for all together more than 400 years, home of the oldest university of the country and the leading cultural and religious centre. Fez is also the home of the oldest an largest medieval city in the world, a city that is almost unchanged through the modern ages and still most definitely alive.

Fez was founded in 789 at a place between the mountains where the river was flushing by. History has provided the city with long periods of hardship, but Fez has never died. Today it has its own culture, pride, art and even cuisine.

The Bali, or the oldest quarters of Fez, were to a large degree saved by the French general Lyautey. When the French got in control of Morocco around the time of World War I, he made all necessary arrangements to protect the medieval structures against the modern development.

The result is that Fez el Bali has taken good care of its old architectural structures and is also very much a living city, where most streets are too narrow for cars and donkeys and mules are in common use. Just like all through its history, Fez el Bali has a striking combination of poverty and developed culture.

Nothing appears to have changed for centuries here in Fez. Donkeys and mules are still the preferred vehicle here between house walls that were erected long before the first European Christian came to visit.

While life forms could appear to be crude and primitive to visitors, it is all a well tested organic structure that has survived more than 1000 years of history.

There are few streets in old Fez that do not have many shops. The basic shop is the tiny grocery store, where basic commodities like sugar, tea, tins and Coca Cola can be bought. Often there will be shops selling goods needed by the local craftsmen. In slightly wider streets, the more typical touristic shop is found. But even this will often have a good part of its money coming in from local customers.

Old monuments are the primary marks of memory and the identity of Man. As such, they need to be treated with care and respect.

In Fez, most of them are still in use in the community which also requires special attention.

Suuq Dabbaghin, or the tanners' quarter, is situated no more than 50 metres away from the Kairouyine mosque. That is quite surprising, since tanning is considered to be an unclean activity and should therefore be as far away as possible from the main mosque. The reason for this proximity might just be that both were located here in times when Fez was no more than a small town.

The tanners' quarter has become one of Fez' main attractions. The reason comes from the platform where you can look down on the entire area, and see how the process is done, and enjoy watching the contrasts between the brownish honeycombs, the white houses and the intense colours of the dye.

The Royal Place is closed to all visitors these days – which is sad because it is in little use and has a reputation of being among the mot elegant structures of Morocco. As it is today. there is little on offer except the views you get through the few open gates. Also there are the decorations around the gates, which give some indications on what is on display inside.

The river of Fez is the life source of this city. Where Fez was to founded, the rivers were full and life appeared to have a good chance. Today, the river runs through the city with houses on both sides, and if you are not careful you could easily overlook the river. It is however visible from the bridge that crosses it all through Fez.

In the summer, Fez can easily become very hot. With a geographical position between the mountains in a place where there is hardly any wind nor rain, temperatures quickly pass 40^oC before noon.
The solution for anyone with some money, but not quite enough to spend their holidays out near the sea or to go abroad, is to pass entire days in swimming pool clubs.
There are several of them around Fez, and these are good places to meet normal Moroccans who often are fluent in more Western languages than French.

Things to Do: Fez El Bali, the largest medina in Morocco requires a guide to navigate. An official guide can be arranged at your hotel. In fact they'll probably be in your face about it. Plan on spending a day seeing the sights and shopping.

Sights: In the Medina there are many beautiful mosques, which only the faithful can enter, and some famous Islamic schools. Over the centuries, Fez has hosted a sizable Jewish community and the cemetery there is a place of pilgrimage for Jews around the world. Besides the Medina, you can explore the Ville Nouvelle, the French built city. You can get a good view of Fez from several hills around the town.

Shopping: Fez is noted for their quality craftsmanship, particularly evident in their carpets, perhaps the most beautiful in Morocco. There's also a great selection of fine metalwork in Fez.

Food: Fez is a great place to splurge on quality Moroccan food. Try one of the restored palaces in the Medina. Fez also has a reasonable selection of European type restaurants. We particularly enjoyed Chez Vittorio. Breakfast Fez style (petit dejeuner) can be had at any number of cafes in the Ville Nouvelle. If you've already had Moroccan food up to here, the Sheraton buffet can set you right again.

Accommodation: There's a wide range of hotels in Fez from the cheap to the five star. Choose one better than usual for a splurge, since Fez hotels are a bargain.

Getting Around: Taxis are cheap and plentiful in Fez. Make sure they have the meter running. If you're visiting the medina, be sure to wear comfortable shoes as you will walk a long way.

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